The Philippine Online Chronicles

The Republic of Djibouti could be considered one of the most inconspicuous African nations, and visitors who have set foot on the country may react to it in two extreme ways: a) extremely despise it because of the heat, ridiculously overpriced goods, and garbage problems; or b) find it so fascinating because it’s a place unlike anywhere else in the world.

Reported to be slightly smaller than Massachusetts, this country in the Horn of Africa could be quickly overlooked due to its small size, but since it is a transit point going to Eritrea or Ethiopia and a free trade zone, many tourists experience the place by chance before visiting the neighboring countries.

France colonized Djibouti, an Eastern country in Africa, between 1843 and 1886 by means of treaties with Somali Sultans. It was named French Somaliland and replaced with the French territory of the Afars (an Ethiopian ethnic group) and Issas (ethnic Somali group) in 1977, after independence was proclaimed. On June 27, 1977 Hassan Gouled Aptidon was proclaimed as the country’s first president.

The 1991 Djiboutian Civil War

The Issas were considered to be the favored and dominant class in Djibouti. This condition greatly contributed to the conflict that erupted between the Afar minority and the Issa-dominated government. Because of lack of representation of Afars in the government, violence between the two ethnic groups erupted for more than a decade. Some clashes were put to an end after a peace agreement between the government and the rebel group Front for the Restoration of Unity and Democracy was signed.

The armed faction of the Afar guerilla, however, continued to fight even after the signing of the agreement. The conflict still goes on 33 years after Djibouti’s independence. Just this year, three Djiboutian soldiers were killed in an ambush.

"They have been trying to go at a power-sharing arrangement, but the real power remains with the Issas and that, of course, feeds resentment with the Afars," said Horn of Africa observer Jack Kalpakian at Al-Akhawayn.

Location and Economy

Djibouti is located at the mouth of the Red Sea and borders Eritrea, Ethiopia, and Somalia. It has a total area of 23,200 sq km and has a total of one city ( Djibouti) and five regions subdivided into 11 districts: Ali Sabieh, Arta, Dikhil, Obock, and Tadjourah. One of the chief occupations is nomadic pastoralism (raising of goats, sheep, and camels).

Djibouti City, the country’s largest city and capital, shows signs of French and Arab influences on its streets and infrastructure. Some of the city attractions for tourists are the Central Market (location of souvenir, food, and local craft stores), the mosque, swimming and diving in islands such as the Maskali and Moucha in the Gulf of Tadjoura (largest gulf in the country), the Khor Ambado beach (for swimming and snorkeling), Lake Assal (a crater lake), and Grande Pecherie (a waterfront fish market).

The four languages spoken in the country are Afar and Somali (official languages), as well as Arabic and French. Djibouti has the largest French military base in Africa (others are at Dakar and Gabon) and around 1,500 American Combined Joint Task Force-Horn of Africa personnel.

The slowness of the country’s economic growth also contributes to the ongoing problem of poverty that directly affects children. The British Red Cross reported that “as one of the poorest countries in the world, 75 per cent of Djiboutians live in relative or extreme poverty. An estimated 200,000 people are migrants, fleeing drought, civil war or persecution from the bordering countries of Somalia, Eritrea and Ethiopia.”

In June 2010, the UNICEF said that two out of three children in Djibouti suffer from the intense effects of poverty. Basic rights to education, health, information nutrition, and sanitation are taken away from 70 percent of children in the country.

Most expensive city in Africa

Djibouti ranks 82 (out of 275) in the most expensive places in the world for expatriates to live.

The place has been described by Lonely Planet as a place where "traditionally robed Afar tribesmen, unashamed qat-chewing men, stalwart French legionnaires (and the odd GI), sensuous Somali glamour kittens and frazzled businessmen with the latest mobile phones stuck to their ear all jostle side by side.”

One tourist, however, has called the place “Africa’s worst tourist trap,” commenting on some devastating areas in Djibouti that highlights the country’s poor conditions. Chief among the discussed details is poverty that has resulted in poor sanitation and overcrowding, intense heat, and the over-the-top prices that tourists need to prepare for.

One tourist also said that when Ethiopians approached them in the streets, the greeting exchanges always went like “whatizyourname?" followed by "wowiz Djibouti, expensive yes??" A minimum of around USD200 a day is charged for private tours, one night in hotels could cost as much as USD150, and a three-hour pool dip could reach USD60. Visitors who pay this kind of amount don’t really get their money’s worth—some places are described as having poor sanitation with lack of some essential amenities.

Big in ambitions

“Small in size, big in ambitions” were the words used by Lonely Planet to describe Djibouti. Even if it is considered as one of the most expensive places in Africa, the experience that tourists could gather from this place will most probably be unlike any other.

Djibouti may not be anywhere on the list of the world’s top travel destinations, but it sure has its own unique set of resources that may be enjoyed by adventurous travelers. Despite its underdevelopment, this country’s size and quietude could still suggest new ways for one to enjoy being away from home.